The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Gardens

Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds form.

This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of growers who produce wine from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots across the city. It is sufficiently underground to have an official name so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Across the Globe

So far, the grower's plot is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of Paris's renowned Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens help cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They preserve land from development by creating long-term, productive farming plots inside cities," explains the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, environment and heritage of a city," notes the president.

Mystery Polish Variety

Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his garden by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack once more. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Across the City

The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Natural Production

Nearby, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."

Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of making vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions

A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only challenge encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Allen Thompson
Allen Thompson

A tech enthusiast and software developer with over a decade of experience in building scalable applications and mentoring teams.