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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.